Simone Moro

Born in 1967 in Bergamo. Italian Himalayan climber, mountaineer, and helicopter pilot, one of the most outstanding high-altitude climbers of the 21st century, known primarily for his first winter ascents of eight-thousanders. Moro is the only person in the world to have made the first four winter ascents of eight-thousanders:
Shishapangma (2005, with Piotr Morawski),
Makalu (2009, with Denis Urubko),
Gasherbrum II (2011, with Cory Richards and Denis Urubko),
Nanga Parbat (2016, with Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara).

He has climbed a total of several eight-thousanders, including Mount Everest, Lhotse, Manaslu, Broad Peak, and Cho Oyu. He values a light, fast, and minimalist style, and his expeditions often have an exploratory dimension.

In addition to climbing, Moro is a professional helicopter pilot. He has led rescue operations in the Himalayas, established helicopter bases, and trained pilots in Nepal. In 2013, he founded Kailash Helicopter Services, a company that supports mountain rescue in hard-to-reach areas.

He is the author of several books, including Extreme. Between Heaven and Hell, The Call of the Ice, and Comet over Annapurna. Known for his humanitarian approach to climbing, he collaborates with aid organizations in Central Asia.

Simone Moro is considered a link between old and modern Himalayan mountaineering – he combines experience, technique, and ethics with the courage of an explorer.

It is worth noting that he is a polyglot and has a love of mountains in his blood – his grandfather and father were mountaineers.

He started out in sport climbing and also worked as a coach for the Italian National Sport Climbing Team (F.A.S.I.).

He was a swimming coach, an army officer, and is a librarian by education.